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new balance dress shoes for men A fair go for all faces When Auckland doctor Pooja Chitgopeker married a Chicago millionaire in spectacular style last month, the bride carried her own concealer. Never mind that she had a makeup artist on hand to prepare her for the lavish ceremony. Three days of festivities, with guests flown in from around the globe, were filmed for a reality show called My Big Fat Indian Wedding. Unsurprisingly, Chitgopeker had had a few sleepless nights before the extravaganza, which is expected to draw 150 million viewers, but like any bride she was intent on looking her best. Makeup artist Carolyn Haslett who has plenty of experience custom blending colours for all sorts of faces wasn't offended. When she worked in Paris years ago the black models carried their own kit to ensure they were properly catered for. These days, with more ethnic diversity on the international runways, makeup artists are better prepared for all faces, but Haslett says there's no doubt there are particular demands to making up darker skin. "For them going out to find something [in the shops] is difficult." Skin tone variation across a darker face can be considerable and standard foundations and concealers, if dark enough in the first place, tend to leave an ashy cast. "They have to get exactly the right advice . someone who knows about their particular skin tone," says Haslett. If only she'd waited a month longer to get married, the icing on the cake might have been a television product tiein with a purposedesigned cosmetic range specifically developed by an Indian makeup maestro. A quick wander round a suburban mall for an unscientific survey underscores the multiethnic face of Auckland and underlines the frustration many women find shopping for makeup. In half an hour, I meet women who have given up on foundation, despair of finding the right shade or a sympathetic ear. Others helpfully recommend or dismiss brands. A beauty consultant at one counter points me towards another, where she happily discovered more choice for her darker skin. I'm told a big brand has just deleted its darkest shade because number crunchers overseas decided not enough was being sold, despite its having a loyal following among Indian women. Most of the women I speak to say product choice has improved over recent years. Unsurprisingly so do the beauty companies, but clearly wordofmouth rather than easy retail access is how many find their best options. Global makeup companies are increasingly using women of all ethnicities to front their ranges, but look beyond the celebrity spokesmodels and for every Aishwarya Rai (for L'Oreal Paris) or Halle Berry (for Revlon) there's another planeload of East European blueeyed blondes. Fairskinned women undoubtedly get the widest range of facebase colours to choose from. Polynesian and Asian women can generally find suitable colours in the main ranges, but for women with darker Indian, Middle Eastern, Melanesian or black skin the choice can be much trickier. Prestige brands generally import a limited range of colours to New Zealand, sometimes as few as six shades of foundation. This can also effect the very fair as sometimes a European brand's palest porcelain option doesn't make it here either. Midpriced mass market ranges usually have a wide selection of colours, but in the cheaper selfselect ranges choice often narrows again. Revlon educates its staff on the differences in dealing with European and Polynesian/Indian skin and L'Oreal says it is constantly reviewing what is on offer. "As a global cosmetic company Revlon does cater for all ethnicities," says training manager Christina Fairhurst. "Although we don't range the darkest shades of foundation available in[to] NZ, we do have trained beauty advisers who can advise on different products within our NZ range." Fairhurst, who has worked in Fiji, says she has matched products for the darkest skintones. Tone, as much as depth of colour, is key to finding a suitable skin match. This is where the expertise of specialist brands founded by or favoured by makeup artists have a particular awareness of diverse ethnic needs. A dark shade developed in America for Latina skin might be quite wrong on an Indian, although a Maori women might see it in a more flattering light. Within specific ethnicities there is also a big variation in colouring, so what suits one woman won't suit every one. Indian women for instance can be anything from golden, though olive to berry brown. Asian women's skin varies widely also, but consistently benefits from yellowbased foundation, however pale it is. Napoleon Perdis, who says his Greek mother struggled to find foundation to suit when she emigrated to Australia, has a couple of good ones that several of the women I spoke to rated highly. Shades not available in New Zealand can sometimes be bought online, but unless you know from experience that they suit, be cautious and do order only through reputable sites. Cosmetic counterfeiting is widespread. Bobbi Brown's sales and marketing coordinator Heyam Berima says: "I have dark skin (African); people don't think I wear foundation most of the time because of the formula and right colour match." Colour matching is central to Bobbi Brown's ethos and she stands out in consistently using ethnically diverse models in her books, of which her Makeup Manual is particularly informative for women wanting to learn more about skin undertones and how to disguise flaws and create a flattering natural base. Making the match Always test colours on the face. To find the right foundation shade, swipe two or three in a stripe on the cheek: the one that disappears into skin is the best, most natural choice. If skin looks pasty the colour is too light.